MY ENCOUNTER WITH AN ART SCAM
8/17/2021
It seems artists are more and more becoming targeted by Internet scammers. If we aren't careful we could lose hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars. Recently I came close to being a scam victim, but with some healthy paranoia and a bit of research I prevented my bank account from taking a hit. The following is the story of my encounter and how I discovered it was a scam.
Robb McKenzie
Photographing Your Artwork
9/24/2020
Presented by Terri St.Arnauld & Frank Yezer Feb 2018
Equipment List - as needed
Foam core
Background, if needed - curtain, bedspread, sheet, liner Chair or bench
Towels
Clothespins or Clips
Lights
Bulb - any type, higher watts or lumens
Ext cord
Camera – Cellphone not recommended
Tripod
White copy paper – blank on both sides
Artwork and Camera Setup
Always use a tripod
Use a contrasting, (relatively) plain background; can be mottled Camera & Settings (digital b/c it is usually required)
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10 mpx or higher
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Lens - Do not use a wide-angle lens.
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Small pieces - macro or normal lens o Medium pieces - normal or zoom lens o Large pieces - zoom or telephoto
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Software that can control color balance
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Set image at highest resolution
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Remote or set timer for exposures (This will eliminate camera shake.)
Hang or put the work on a stand
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Table
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Easel (artist or plate)
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Chair or bench - a box can be set on it to raise the surface
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Place rolled towel near seat back
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Lean foam core, background and piece against back; use clothespins & mat to hold flat, if necessary
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Use additional towels behind to bring top forward, if needed
View - Make sure your camera captures the work (not the mat or frame) with a bit of space around all sides of it to allow for cropping to a particular length/width ratio, especially if this might be printed later.
Camera Setup
2-D
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Straight on camera angle - lens is parallel (barrel is perpendicular) to center of work or edges will begin to converge
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Works on paper, unstretched canvas, textiles and any substrate that might warp, will need support 3-D
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Multiple camera angles – at least 2
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Other equipment might be needed for tall pieces
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Focus – Know how to focus and reframe
Focus -
Auto-focus for flat work
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Know how to set your focus spots, if that is possible
Lighting
Natural - best, if possible
Camera Flash – Do not use, as this will produce hot spots
2-D
Indirect; over your shoulder or from the side (45-60 degrees from plane of work); no shadows, unless you need to show texture or other dimensionality (more raking light)
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3-D
Indirect to avoid hot spots, especially on horizontal or smooth surfaces, but shadows to define are important; large pieces usually work best with cloudy-bright conditions
Artificial - more control, if needed; large pieces can be more difficult to light because big, strong lighting is needed; any bulb type or combination will work
Photographing
After your artwork and camera are in place, arrange your lighting and test with the camera by taking photographs and reviewing them for the following issues:
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White Balance - Place a piece of white copy paper (no folds or crumples) in the center of the work and photograph. Adjust the white balance according to your camera’s instructions.
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Alignment - Make sure the edges of your piece are parallel to the edges of the digital image and that you have a little extra space on all sides of the work.
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Make sure there are no hot spots or shadows on the piece.
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Check the color. This can be adjusted somewhat with your software but should be close. You can
adjust the Lighting and/or White Balance, if needed. -
Take 6-12 exposures.
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Repeat steps 1-5 for each piece you are documenting. If you are shooting 3-D work, repeat for
each view of each piece. However, we recommend that you check the first set of images to make sure you have something to work with before taking down the piece.
Post-Production
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Download your images to your computer and delete any that are obviously bad. Pick one that looks good and enlarge it to 100%, looking at important sections to make sure they look good, especially the focus. (Minor color corrections can be made in editing.)
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Edit - Select the best-looking image. Others should be deleted and/or saved in a 1st Cuts folder. Edit a copy of your image file for Color Correction, Contrast, and any other issues you feel need attention. Save any cropping for the last step, as it can clip some of your information. This is your Edited File, which can be copied for any size changes you make, since they’re always different.
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Image Size - If you need a specific size for submission, make a copy of your edited file; crop your image, if needed; and edit the image size. You cannot make your image larger without losing quality so make sure you check the numbers. It’s easier to make note of the existing size, which is usually shown in this mode. (EX: 72 px / in; width = 6000 px; height = 4000 px) When you change the px / in, the W:H will adjust. If either of the other two numbers is less than is needed, your file will not meet the minimum size requirement and you should get help with this copy work. If your file is larger than the maximum, change the one that is closest without exceeding the maximum size and the other will adjust. If these both meet the parameters, save this edit. (NOTE: Any time you cannot use the crop, Undo it before trying again. If you are working with the Image Size and you have not yet saved it, you can just change the numbers.)
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Save File - If you need to change the file type, you will select it in the File > Save As process. Changing the file type automatically makes this a copy of the file but in a different format.
© Terri St.Arnauld & Frank Yezer 2018
ABOUT
This blog is a compilation of knowledge gained, experiences had, lessons-learned, tips and tricks picked up over the years by CAS artists. If you have something you would like to share with the membership please submit it here
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MAY MEETING
5/7/2020
The May meeting was informative and different. Due to COVID we hosted the meeting using ZOOM Video Conferencing. Here is the PDF of the presentation by Lisa Zinna and Leslie Kell.
WHAT TO KNOW ABOUT EXHIBITING YOUR ART
2/11/2020
The following Power Point is from our February 5, 2020 meeting and covers numerous topics related to how to exhibit your art. Some of the information provided is repeated in previous blogs but this will provide you with a single point for a wealth of helpful information.
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GALLERY WRAPPING & RE-STRETCHING CANVAS
1/31/2020
May 2019 Meeting Presentation
By Nancy Brown
Nancy explained and demonstrated gallery wrapping and re-stretching a canvas over a wooden frame. She has used her own wooden frames for her paintings for years and prefers the hand-made frames over the pre-stretched canvas for a variety of reasons. The only disadvantage, she admits, is the weight. Because she uses stronger wood with larger dimensions, it does weigh more per linear foot. However, they don't warp and can be re-used many times. Below, you can see how she secures a corner.
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Thank you, Nancy Brown!
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I’M A PRICE-SETTING PSYCHO
1/31/2020
September 2018 Newsletter
By Barry Eigen
Often when I find myself among a group of artists the conversation turns to how we artists should set prices for our art.
An economics professor of mine described the strategy for setting prices this way: Imagine you are selling bean bags, he said. Let’s assume you’ve got a warehouse full of bean bags and every morning you go to the window, look outside to see how many people are waiting in line to buy your beanbags. If the line goes all the way to the horizon, he said, you should raise your prices. If on the other hand no one is standing in line, it's time to lower your prices. It’s obvious.
An experienced Austinite told me if a person picked up a stone and threw it in any direction, he would hit a musician or an artist. That’s how many artists and musicians there are in Austin. In other words, a lot of artists means there is a great deal of competition for art buyers resulting in a smaller number of art buyers standing in any one line. Too few buyers, he would say, is a buyer’s market and a buyer’s market exerts downward pressure on prices. That’s been my experience here in Austin. I moved to Texas just four years ago from Wisconsin and I am convinced a painting priced at X dollars here will sell for two or three times that in New York, Chicago, Santa Fe and even Milwaukee.
There are those who argue sculpture should be priced based on size while two dimensional art should be priced by the square inch. One told me the going rule for pricing a painting is $1.00 per square inch. Another said $1.25. On a video, an established artist suggested $1.75. Maybe I’m wrong but I have a good deal of trouble understanding this approach.
In my thinking, neither size nor even the amount of time it takes to create a piece should be the dominant way to determine price. Certainly every piece of art we create is not like every other. In our various opinions, some of our art may be more successful than others. I argue we ought to be able to price the work we really like different from the work we like less. I’m fully aware some folks don’t agree.
The notion that the time it takes to create a piece should determine its price was for me dismissed forever by an incident I experienced years ago. I attended an art fair with a close friend, a potter known for his large copper mat raku wheel-thrown amphoras with bottoms that came to a graceful point. Some of his pieces were five feet tall and for display were balanced delicately on a plexiglas cylinder. To say his work was stunning is an understatement and his prices, ranging from five hundred to seventy-five hundred dollars, underscored it.
At the show a collector came along, carefully studied one magnificent piece and asked how someone could throw a piece whose bottom came to a point. “I throw it upside down,” the potter answered. Then, considering the piece’s very substantial price, the collector asked the question we all sometimes get: “How long did it take you to make that piece?” My friend smiled and gave an answer that said it all. “Thirty years!” he said. I use that answer often. You can use it too.
Setting prices is always subjective. The battle between pricing your work so it will sell and setting prices so your work will be appreciated is not easy. I only offer the words of a seventeenth century French playwright.
“Things only have the value that we give them.” - Moliere
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ARTIST ETIQUETTE
1/31/2020
September 2018 Newsletter
By Diane Pingree
When attending art receptions, shows and other events, keep in mind that the featured artist or artists are the focus, so out of courtesy and consideration for them, here are some guidelines:
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Do not promote your own work at the event by passing out brochures, business cards or discussing your art at length. If, during a conversation someone asks, be brief and discreet in giving out your contact information.
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Do not make negative comments about the work shown. This is not the time to critique another's art. If the art does not appeal to you and you don't have anything positive to say about it, say nothing. This is a time for the artists to shine, so don't dim their place in the spotlight.
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Never touch any piece of art being exhibited. This can not only damage the work but is seen as a violation of personal boundaries.
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Never take photos at an event without permission. If there is a "No Photos" sign, respect it.
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If you have an opportunity to meet the artist in person, do not monopolize a conversation with him or her. Others will be waiting also.
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Remember that what you project comes back. If you are considerate, respectful and encouraging of other artists' work, you likely will receive the same treatment when it's your turn. Artists put their souls on display, so treat them and their art with care and kindness.
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HOW TO GET INTO A GALLERY
1/31/2020
November 2018 Newsletter
By Helen Buck
These notes are from Big Medium’s Creative Standards Seminar in October. This is what I heard and interpreted and may not be completely accurate. If you attended this or other sessions during the event, please share your notes.
SESSION: How to Get into Galleries
Presenter: Chris Cowden, Exec Director at Women and Their Work
Mentioned several times: Sharing your work for free does a disservice to the art community.
1. Research space / range and type of work/ gallery history / who has shown at this gallery and what is their experience.
2. Pace yourself: make note of the shows and galleries to submit your work and remember it takes from 5 to 10 hours to complete a submission if done well
3. DO NOT cold call or just show up and do not mail. Waste of time and money
4. You can call and ask “what is your process” / note, many galleries already have their process noted on their web site.
5. The # 1 most important thing is submitting OUTSTANDING visual images. It’s worth spending the money. If you find a detail within your piece important, you might be able to provide a second image with a close up. Don’t expect the judge to blow up your digital image
6. Artist Statement: don’t overthink/ just be yourself/ talk about your work / keep it to a few well-crafted sentences. Focus on what brings you to work in your craft and how this work is produced
7. Do not denigrate your work or yourself/ be proud of you and your work
8. If the call is for 10 great pieces and you have 4 or 5 / Wait to apply until you have the 10 needed even if it’s next year
9. Don’t get burned out applying everywhere. Be judicious
10. Rejection is part of it. Make it a mind game: ie. I get accepted to 1 out of 10 I apply for therefore 1 rejection brings me closer to acceptance.
11. Yes a website is needed. Make it good and keep it updated. All other social media may help. But beware the time you spend with it.
12. Consistent Authentic Investigation: Chris spoke to honesty when dealing with galleries (Proposal should specify if the work presented are examples and there will be new work in the show or is the submitted work what the gallery can expect)
13. You can have one style. But if you have several styles make them consistently strong as you apply. If you present more than one style, group them with 4 or 5 like styles. (ie: 4 or 5 botanicals and 4 or 5 portraits / 4 or 5 acrylic paintings and 4 or 5 sculptures)
14. Review your rejection letters and look for positive remarks. If you don’t get feedback when rejected you can respectfully ask for remarks. You may not get it but sometimes you will
15. Closing: have faith in your work and keep applying
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1/31/2020
November 2018 Newsletter
By Terri St.Arnauld
Why - We usually take our photographs in the largest size possible to capture the most information. This makes it easier to edit a photo. However, when using a photo file for digital purposes (websites, submissions, email attachments, etc.), it's usually better, and sometimes required, to have a small file. This makes it important to know how to resize your photos.
Parameters - For fine printing, you would want a file at 300 pixels per inch (ppi) and at least the HxW of your print, making a total (L-XL) size that could be 10-120 MB. For web uses, though, you only need a file at 72 ppi and a HxW specified/recommended by the end user. We will use the Newsletter for our working example, at 72 ppi, dimensions of the longest side should not exceed 400 pixels and a total file size of 500 KB. [Your file must be less than 700px or it will not upload to the newsletter software in a reasonable amount of time and will not be used.]
Software - There are many free software programs and apps out there, though not all of them will allow resizing your photo to your specifications. I've done a little research on this and am going to recommend Fotor, as well as provide some basic instructions. I've chosen Fotor because it is very easy to use and seems to be available for download on all the basic platforms (desktop - windows, apple; mobile - android, ios; chromebook; ipad).
Download Fotor at https://www.fotor.com and set up your account to use on one or all of your platforms.
Instructions for Resizing Multiple Images Using Fotor [Note: “>” means “next”, “then” or similar.]
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All photos to resize need to be put into a separate Folder. These can be copies, if you want to keep the originals in different locations. If you are going to edit a photo in any other way (adjust, crop), that should already be done when you put it into this Folder.
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Open Fotor > select Source Folder (the one that you put the images into.)
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Select Destination Folder (I recommend the default, which will be a subfolder created automatically and called Fotor Batch.)
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Select Settings (Follow bulleted instructions below.)
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Select Batch Resize > Resize > W-300; H=Proportional > Keep Proportions.
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If any of your images are not already in JPEG/jpg format, select Format Conversion > Format-jpg > JPEG Quality=Normal.
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Process (It processed 45 images for me in about 5 seconds.) Your resized jpg files will now be in the Fotor Batch folder, under your Source Folder.
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Other Options to Consider, If You're So Inclined
Top 5 Free Photo Editing Software for PC/Laptop
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Gimp
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Fotor
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Photoshop Express
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Pixlr
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Paint.net
Editing Aps for Phones
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VSCO Cam
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Snapseed
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Adobe Lightroom
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Instagram
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Pixlr Express
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Flickr
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Photo Editor by Aviary
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Repix
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Fotor
Editing Tools for Novices (not sure if these are all free)
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Adobe Photoshop Elements
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Adobe Lightroom
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Corel Paintshop Pro
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Gimp
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Serif PhotoPlus
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BE KIND TO YOUR VENUE COORDINATORS
1/31/2020
February 2019 Newsletter
By Leslie Kell
We are fortunate to have a healthy roster of venues to display our art and we are blessed with dedicated volunteers to facilitate these exhibits. Let’s try to make things easy on them…
Here are some gentle reminders about expectations as a CAS artist:
A. Before you submit for a show, please read the call and check the dates. Make sure you are available to drop off and pick up your work. We understand that things come up. If so, please make arrangements for dropping off and picking up your artwork. Be aware that picking up outside of the designated time is an inconvenience for the venue and the coordinator.
B. If you commit to a show, honor that commitment. CAS strives to maintain professional practices and when an artist doesn’t show, it impacts our reputation and yours. You are also potentially wasting a spot that another artist would have gladly taken.
C. Be on time – our volunteers have schedules and commitments as well. They need to be able to install and strike shows as efficiently as possible.
D. Remember that our venues are places of business. We need to respect that we are guests, and not linger where it is disturbing to the venue patrons.
E. Volunteer! We can only handle as many venues as we have coordinators for. There are so many opportunities for our artists, but it’s not possible to explore them without people willing to help. So if you are interested in volunteering let us know. It can be the most fun and rewarding experience: building your knowledge, getting to know fellow artists, planning and coordinating shows (small, medium, and large).
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